A Step by Step Guide
A lash lift is a perm or smoothing treatment which sets the natural lashes into a new shape. Most commonly silicon shields are used to create the new shape however silicon rods can be used too.
The shields are placed on the eyelids and the lashes are combed onto the shield. This all held in place using a temporary glue while the lifting and setting solutions are working on the lashes to create the new direction and shape of the lashes.
The objective is to lift the lashes up, which creates the appearance of longer and fuller lashes because when they are pointing forward horizontally as they most often do, you aren’t able to fully see them. A Lift will fan the lashes up and out so the lashes are fully visible.
It’s an easy, low maintenance treatment with immediate results. You will need to keep the lash lift away from water for the first 24 hours, however, after this it’s set and forget. You can do all kinds of activities; swim, sweat, wear makeup and mascara, without it affecting the lift.
It’s a hugely popular alternative to lash extensions and perfect for active lifestyles. Lash Lift has today become equally as in demand as lash extensions. Lash Lifts can be done every 6 to 8 weeks; once the Lash Lift has grown out, you can get it redone.
A Lash Lift is done by using a perming solution, thioglycolate, or a smoothing treatment such as keratin. There are also vegan friendly keratin Lash Lift brands available like Elleebana’s Profusion Lash Lift. However, this brand is for professional use and not recommended for at home use.
What you’ll need
Your lash lift kit should contain at least the following:
- Shields or rods
- Lifting/Perming solution
- Setting Solution
- Lash Lift Glue
- Lash Lifting tool
- Information on the solution timings for that particular brand
A good kit will include a lash lifting tool like a Y Tool or lash lifting separator. You may find a Y tool is easier to use if you are doing it yourself because it can comb sections of hair up at a time and will provide very good results.
Eye Patches will separate the bottom lashes from the top lashes. They will help you see quickly which lashes to stick onto the shields without mixing up your bottom lashes and inadvertently sticking them to the shields as well.
If you find the eye patches move around or touch or rub your eyeball, don’t use them. It is possible to do the lash lift without them. Eye patches are an aid rather than necessary.
If you are not sure what size shield you need, choose medium. This can be your starting point. If you find you need more lift, use a smaller shield for next time, less lift; use a larger shield.
For very short straight lashes I recommend the medium shield. It sounds counterproductive, however, to create the illusion of longer lashes on very short straight lashes you need to create a bend in the lashes, and you can’t achieve this as well with a smaller (flatter) shield.
If you use a small shield on very short and straight lashes the lashes will set straight and you will not notice the lift. You need to create a flick or curve in the lashes when they are very short.
You will also need:
- A dish of water
- Cotton pads or similar
- Cotton buds or similar
- Clean mascara wand/lash brush
- If your kit doesn’t contain any applicators to apply the solutions you will need something to use; eg; fine makeup brush, toothpick
Step by Step guide to do a Lash Lift at home
- Cleanse lashes and eye area thoroughly with an oil free cleanser
- Brush a thin amount of glue on the inside of the shield and place on eye. The base of the shield should sit aligned next to the lash line.
- Brush a thin amount of glue onto the shield that is now sitting on the eyelid
- Use the Y Tool to brush the lashes up into place. Ensure the lashes are straight and separated evenly for beautiful results.
Apply a generous coat of the Lifting Solution over the bottom half on the lashes from the base near the root to the mid lengths, avoiding the eyes and the tips of the lashes. Use a fine tip applicator for accurate application. If you do not have an applicator, use a toothpick lengthways because it creates a precise line and doesn't soak up product.
Let it process for the recommended time depending on how thin or thick the eyelashes are, using a timer. Use the middle amount of time suggested for medium lashes. Make sure you process both lashes for exactly the same amount of time so they are lifted evenly.
Wipe off with a cotton bud and avoid wiping over the tips of the lashes as this could cause the tips of the lashes to process which you want to avoid as it can frizz the tips of the lashes and over process your lift.
Apply a thick coat of the Setting Lotion over the bottom half on the lashes from the base near the root to just past the mid lengths, going just past the edge of where you applied Step 1, to ensure all of the area that has been treated is neutralised. Again, use a fine tip applicator for accurate application. Let it process for the recommended time using your timer. Then wipe off with a cotton bud.
Some Lash Lift kits have 2 steps, some have 3 or 4. In this instance we are going to assume you have a Step 3 which is usually the step to condition the lashes. Apply the nourishing agent over the entire lashes and leave on for the prescribed time. This step in addition to conditioning, will also help soften the glue and lift the lashes off the silicon shield. Then, wipe the area with a cotton pad to remove the lashes from the shield and then the shield from the eyelid.
If your kit allows it, you can wipe the lashes with a damp cotton pad.
Brush and separate the lashes with a clean mascara wand/lash brush using an upwards motion.
DO NOT GET WET FOR 24 HOURS. This will cause the lift to fall out.
- If doing it on yourself, do one eye at a time
- The shields can be trimmed if they are too wide for your eyelids
- Wherever you place the lashes on the shield is where the lashes will set. If they are criss crossed they will look criss crossed afterwards
- If the lash placement needs to be fixed, wet the area with a damp cotton bud and re-comb into desired position. You may need to apply a little more glue.
- Take note of the processing times you used so you can use the same times or amend next time
- Be accurate with timings if doing one eye at a time to ensure the same processing time for each eye
- A patch test on the skin in the inner arm of all solutions is advised before proceeding
WARNING If there is any irritation stop the treatment immediately and irrigate with water.
Tinting your Lash Lift
Tinting the lashes after you do a lash lift takes the impact of your lash lift from 100 to 1000. This goes for dark lashes as well as often the tips are naturally lighter. For a cool vivid black use a blue black tint (your lashes will not be blue) or a black for a pure black. If you are very fair and prefer a more natural look you may wish to use a dark brown.
RefectoCil have a great Mini Lash and Brow Styling Tinting Kit for at home use with a black tint for lashes and natural brown tint for the brows.