If you want to elevate your brow tinting technique or just need a refresher, here is a step by step guide to creating the perfect brow tint for your client.
1. The Consultation
Check for contraindications
- Are they using anything that can make their skin sensitive?
- Have they used any tanning products on their skin in the last week?
Ask what they would like to achieve and give them your advice as well. Doing this while they look in a mirror is best.
- Do they want to go darker? To match their hair or roots? To tint the fair hairs above the tails to create more fullness?
- Check the symmetry and style of the natural brows. You can use mapping tools to assist like callipers or brow mapping string.
Repeat back to them what you have agreed to do so it's very clear. This will manage your clients expectations and mitigate any misunderstandings.
2. The Tint
Use a professional tinting brand like RefectoCil. If you prefer a more gentle tint on the skin you can use Elleeplex Tints with the 2% activator which is EU standard. Here in Australia 3% is more common but you can use either whilst providing great results.
Mix the tint in equal parts with the activator. Using more activator will dilute the tint and it will not tint as well. The cream oxidants are easier to measure than the liquids. The underside of a glass dappen glass provides a shallow concave dish and is perfect for mixing tints. The glass will not stain or crack over time and the small dish will reduce product wastage.
You do not need to use much product. Half a pea size for each is usually more than enough for most brows.
3. Mapping the Brows
Either map using a wax pencil, preinked mapping string or freehand to create your shape. Another technique is to shape after you apply the tint using a wet cotton bud to wipe around the shape.
4. Applying the tint
Use an angled brow brush to apply the tint. Some skins will absorb the tint and there will be a skin stain after the tint is removed so it's crucial there are clean lines. Use a wet cotton bud to wipe any wobbly lines so the brow tint is smooth around the edges. Do not rely on waxing or tint remover to lift all the skin stain off where you don't want it as it's not always possible to remove it completely.
The skin stain usually will not last more than a day or two. If your client has used a tanning product on their face in the last week the tint will react to the like an ink stamp and it is not recommended they proceed with a tint.
Wait 10 minutes for the tint to work. If you remove at 5 minutes it will not last very long. If you need a lighter tint effect, use a lighter tint.
If you want to soften the tint look, you can ombre the brows by removing the tint at the bulbs 1 to 2 minutes before you remove the rest.
5. Removing the tint
Remove the tint using a wet cotton round. You can use water or saline solution. Using saline solution will maintain the skins pH balance more than regular water and is said to help the tint last longer on the skin if you want the stain to last as long as possible. Give the brows a brush with a spoolie so they are sitting in place.
If you are shaping the brows you may proceed to wax them while the tint is processing. If you are threading you will need to wait till the tint has been removed.
I hope this guide has been helpful. Provide a good consultation, create an even and aesthetic shape, make sure there are no wobbly outer edges with the tint application and ensure an adequate processing time to create a successful brow tint.